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Gyro-X-Press brings Greek food to York

Created: 11/30/2009 05:43:59 PM EST

Gyro-X-Press owner Chris Kopanis shaves gyro meat in the kitchen. (DAILY RECORD/SUNDAY NEWS - BIL BOWDEN)

Off the top of my head, I could name at least five restaurants in York County owned by people of Greek descent.

They operate a wide range of eateries - an Italian restaurant, a steak house, a couple diners.

Funny thing is, not one serves much Greek food, until now. Chris Kopanis, who also owns the Eagles Nest in Springettsbury Township, noticed the lack of food from his homeland in the York area. He decide to change that.

"And what's better than a gyro?" said his daughter, Irene, who manages Gyro-X-Press. "We don't have anything like that in York. There's all these fast food places in York but no gyros."

I discovered Gyro-X-Press thanks to a flier someone handed me. Otherwise, I knew nothing about the place, so I arrived at the tiny locale on Memory Lane surprised to find it is not a sit-down restaurant. It offers only drive-through and walk-up service.

For Greek food, it felt funny. Most things you order at a drive-through have two syllables. Bur-ger. So-da. French fries.

"Can I get the pork souv . . . souvlaki sandwich?" I asked. "Did I pronounce that right?"

Now imagine discussing the contents of the tzatziki sauce via an intercom system. Those new to Greek food will have questions. Perhaps some more pictures on the menu board would help.

With my order in hand, I wasn't sure where to eat it, since eating messy Greek food while driving is about as safe as texting and Tweeting behind the wheel.

I thought about taking it home or back to work with me. I would have liked the option of sitting on a park bench, but there aren't any on the property right now. I ended up parking my car and eating. Logistical issues aside, the food tasted great. Souvlaki is cubes of tender pork, marinated and then grilled on a kabob. The souvlaki "sandwich" has the same elements as a gyro, except with the grilled pork instead of rotisserie-cooked ground lamb and beef. The tzatziki sauce, a condiment made with either Greek yogurt or sour cream, had

Mike Baldwin uses the drive-in window for a walk-up order at Gyro-X-Press, while Jim Hooker waits his turn in his construction company truck. (DAILY RECORD/SUNDAY NEWS - BIL BOWDEN)

a nice sharp taste - an effect similar to horseradish sauce but more mellow.

Freshly chopped tomato, onion and oregano topped everything off. The pita bread holding everything together tasted so soft and warm, I would not have minded eating it by itself.

I enjoyed the baklava, as I usually do, for its understated sweetness. Its multiple layers of unleavened phyllo dough surround cinnamon and chopped walnuts, with honey drizzled on top.

I will be interested to see if this place makes it. The flavor of its food will not be its downfall. But it's anyone's guess whether people will get used to asking, "Can I get baklava with that?"

Cheap Eats profiles local restaurants with meals for less than $10. Suggestions are welcome. Reach Wade Malcolm at 771-2101, wmalcolm@ydr.com or on Twitter @YDRCheapEats.