Every spring, my husband and I have the "Great Asparagus Argument."

I want to have asparagus for dinner pretty much every night. And, well, he doesn't. I always win.

To be honest, we don't actually eat asparagus seven nights a week. But I do manage to make it quite a lot. In my book, there's nothing that says spring better than lightly steamed asparagus slathered in butter. In fact, that's pretty much the only way I ever made asparagus until I selected this week's recipe.

It's from Bon Appetit magazine, which I usually stay away from because I don't have time to make five-course meals using, say, Sichuan peppercorn or chestnut flour you have to order off the Internet three weeks in advance.

This magazine is way too complicated for me.

But this recipe, for stir-fried sesame asparagus, meets my two criteria: It's easy and it promises big flavor. How could asparagus with garlic and sesame oil go wrong?

Shopping was a breeze; everything is available at your neighborhood grocery store. Prep was quick. Chop a few cloves of garlic, trim some asparagus, throw it in a pan and you're done.

Actually stir-frying the asparagus was a bit of a problem. As one of our testers pointed out, the recipe didn't specify how hot the burner should be. I had mine turned up high - as you would with a stir-fry - and had the good luck to look over at the stove just as my garlic started to brown.

I turned off the heat and took a taste. I can't imagine anything better. The asparagus was crisp, and had a nutty flavor from the garlic and sesame oil.

Looks like I have a new way to make asparagus every night.

Stir-fried Sesame Asparagus

Serves: 4 to 6

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 teaspoons sugar

2 tablespoons oriental sesame oil

2 large garlic cloves, chopped

2 pounds asparagus, ends trimmed, cut on diagonal into 2-inch-long pieces

4 teaspoons sesame seeds

Stir soy sauce and sugar in small bowl until sugar dissolves. Heat oil in heavy large skillet. Add garlic and stir 15 seconds. Add asparagus and stir-fry until crisp-tender, about four minutes. Add soy mixture and toss until asparagus is coated, about one minute longer. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to bowl; sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve.

Source: This recipe is from the August 2000 issue of Bon Appetit